{"id":25659,"date":"2019-09-24T18:09:36","date_gmt":"2019-09-24T17:09:36","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/staging.serbianprivatetours.com\/?p=25659"},"modified":"2019-09-24T18:09:36","modified_gmt":"2019-09-24T17:09:36","slug":"srpski-atos-magican-dan-u-manastirima-fruske-gore","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/staging.serbianprivatetours.com\/sr\/srpski-atos-magican-dan-u-manastirima-fruske-gore\/","title":{"rendered":"Srpski Atos: Magi\u010dan dan u manastirima Fru\u0161ke gore"},"content":{"rendered":"

Supruga i ja ba\u0161 volimo da putujemo. Zbog poslovnih obaveza ba\u0161 i ne sti\u017eemo da odemo na neko du\u017ee putovanje, a promena okru\u017eenja, makar na kratko, bila nam je ba\u0161 potrebna. Izbor nam je pao na jednodnevni izlet po manastirima Fru\u0161ke gore. To je ba\u0161 ono \u0161to nam je bilo potrebno da se opustimo, saznamo ne\u0161to novo i zajedno provedemo predivan dan.<\/p>\n

Manastiri Fru\u0161ke gore – planina du\u0161e<\/h3>\n

Kao i uvek kada idemo na put razmenjivali smo znanja o destinaciji koju \u0107emo posetiti. Tako sam od supruge koja se bavi ikonopisom i obo\u017eava pravoslane crkve, saznao da su stari Latini Fru\u0161ku goru zvali Alma Mons, \u0161to zna\u010di \u201cplanina du\u0161e\u201d. Kao da su slutili da \u0107e, ba\u0161 na ovom mestu, ni\u0107i velika duhovna riznica.<\/p>\n

\u201cMo\u017eda uzvi\u0161ena stanja duha ne znaju za prostor ni za vreme, pa se susre\u0107u na nama nevidljivim me\u0111ama\u201d, prokomentarisala je moja supruga Ivana.<\/p>\n

\u201cFru\u0161kogorske manastire po\u010dela je da gradi despotka porodica Brankovi\u0107a. Strahovalo se da \u0107e Turci ugu\u0161iti pravoslavlje, pa je centar srpske duhovnosti pomeren tu, bli\u017ee onda\u0161njoj Austrougarskoj\u201d, dodala je.<\/p>\n

Tako je Fru\u0161ka gora postala dom za 17 pravoslavnih manastira koji su preostali od tridesetak i dobila nadimak \u201cSrpski Atos\u201d.<\/p>\n

Manastir Velika Remeta \u2013mesto gde \u017eivi \u010darobni monah Gerasim<\/h3>\n

\"One<\/p>\n

Oko sat vremena kasnije bili smo na Fru\u0161koj gori. Sa proplanka smo se vijugavim putem spustili u malu udolinu i ugledali kapiju manastira Velika Remeta<\/a>, posve\u0107enog Svetom Dimitriju.<\/p>\n

Do\u010dekala nas je crkva okru\u017eena divnim ru\u017ei\u010dnjakom koji se ponosno \u0161epurio cvetovima ne\u017ene crvene boje i mirisom koji je ispunjavao vazduh daju\u0107i sve\u010dan ton zdanju. Prate\u0107i kamenu stazu, u\u0161li smo u crkvu. Impozantni ikonostas ostavio je na nas sna\u017ean prvi utisak. Savr\u0161en spoj umetnosti i duhovnosti prosto zra\u010di sa zidova umiruju\u0107i du\u0161u i telo.<\/p>\n

U dnu crkve, svetlost se prelamala padaju\u0107i na konopac koji je \u010dinio da crkveno zvono veselo zaigra i zapeva.<\/p>\n

Prema starom obi\u010daju, kupili smo sve\u0107e, a zatim, ispred crkve, u maloj prostoriji koja podse\u0107a na pe\u0107inu mogu, zapalili ih za zdravlje i sre\u0107u najbli\u017eih, ali i za na\u0161u ljubav da nikada ne izbledi.<\/p>\n

U sklopu manastira postoji i knji\u017eara prepuna zapisa mudrih monaha, diskova sa crkvenom muzikom i suvenira \u010dijom se prodajom manastir finansira. Tu nas je do\u010dekao otac Gerasim. Ovaj \u010dovek ima naj\u0161iri i najiskreniji osmeh koji smo ikada videli. Prosto \u010doveka okupa svojom milo\u0161\u0107u.<\/p>\n

U prvi mah mo\u017ee se u\u010diniti nekako \u010dudnim. Pri\u010dao nam je o lepoti crkvene muzike, pa se nekoliko puta iznenada zakikotao, kao da je video ne\u0161to vrlo sme\u0161no i simpati\u010dno. Me\u0111utim, posle nekoliko re\u010denica koje smo razmenili shvatili smo da je on zapravo detinje \u010dist i da ga je upravo vera u\u010dinila takvim. Kao da \u017eivot koji je \u017eiveo pre manastira nikada nije ni postojao i kao da u svakom trenutku jednim okom gleda u raj.<\/p>\n

Stalno se osmehuju\u0107i, podelio nam je diskove sa crkvenom muzikom. Tek tu, pred ovim \u010dovekom prave vere koji je odbacio sve \u0161to ga je vezivalo za ovaj svet, shvatili smo u kolikom stresu \u017eivimo, koliko umemo da budemo nervozni i da ljubav, koja je apsolutna su\u0161tina \u017eivota i vere, \u010desto bude pod isku\u0161enjem.<\/p>\n

Ispred ulaza u manastir, uz maleno brdo, vredni monasi napravili su repliku brda Sion i Vitlejemske pe\u0107ine. Tu se nalazi i kapela, a u dnu je potok koji nastaje od izvora Ubavac za koji se veruje le\u010di vid. Zahvatili smo malo vode i oprali o\u010di. Valja se. Da imamo bolji fizi\u010dki, a i duhovni vid.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n

Grgeteg \u2013 fru\u0161kogorski manastir koji je podigao Zmaj<\/h3>\n

\"One<\/p>\n

Od Velike Remete uputili smo se ka manastiru Grgeteg<\/a>, koji je, \u0161to bi se reklo \u2013 odmah tu, iza \u0107o\u0161ka. Petnaestak minuta vo\u017enje i bili smo pred kapijom. Jo\u0161 davno sam pro\u010ditao da je manastir podigao Vuk Grgurevi\u0107 (Zmaj Ognjeni Vuk) kako bi njegov slepi otac Grgur Brankovi\u0107 (monah German) imao gde u miru da provede svoje mona\u0161ke dane. Supruga mi je objasnila da je ovo ipak legenda, a ne istorijska \u010dinjenica. Kako bilo, meni se ipak vi\u0161e dopada verzija u kojoj Zmaj podi\u017ee manastir za svog tatu.<\/p>\n

U crkvi smo se dugo zadr\u017eali pred ikonostasom. Upijali smo boje, linije, izraze. Ipak, njega je ikonopisao Uro\u0161 Predi\u0107, jedan od najve\u0107ih srpskih slikara. Njegov rad, to je zaista ne\u0161to van ovoga sveta. Mo\u017ee se osetiti svaka emocija svetaca koji su \u017eivopisani. Iako je ra\u0111en \u201dhladnim\u201d materijalima mermerom, gipsom i kovanim gvo\u017e\u0111em, iz njih zra\u010de toplina i ose\u0107ajnost.<\/p>\n

Pored ikonostasa nalazila se ikona Bogorodice Trojeru\u010dice, replika jedne od najve\u0107ih svetinja pravoslavne vere. Pred njom obi\u010dno stoje hodo\u010dasnici koji su do\u0161li samo da bi se pomolili ovoj ikoni i zamolili za zdravlje.<\/p>\n

Prepuni utisaka, seli smo ispred crkve da se odmorimo i u\u017eivamo u miru koji je u ovom manastiru nekako posebno izra\u017een. Ponekad bi pro\u0161la poneka monahinja, \u017eurno hrle\u0107i da izvr\u0161i poslu\u0161anje. Dok smo se \u0161etali stazicom ka kapiji, dru\u0161tvo nam je pravio manastirski \u0161tenac. Kao da je krenuo da nas isprati, ponosno je kora\u010dao pored nas da se ne izgubimo. Za nagradu dobio je turu ma\u017eenja i \u010de\u0161kanje po stomaku.<\/p>\n

Despotica Angelina \u2013ljubav za ceo \u017eivot<\/h3>\n

\"One<\/p>\n

Put nas je dalje odveo u manastir Kru\u0161edol<\/a> koji je tek desetak minuta udaljen od manastira Grgeteg. U njemu le\u017ee mo\u0161ti svete mati Angeline i nekih od najve\u0107ih ljudi srpske istorije: \u0110or\u0111e i Stefan Brankovi\u0107 (sin i mu\u017e mati Angeline), patrijarh Arsenije III \u010carnojevi\u0107 koji je predvodio veliku seobu Srba, kneginja Ljubica, kralj Milan Obrenovi\u0107\u2026<\/p>\n

Kada se u\u0111e u manastir ne mo\u017ee da se ne oseti dah pro\u0161lih vremena. Veliki ljudi koji ovde po\u010divaju u\u010dinili su da se zapitam nad svojim \u017eivotom. Da li je ispunjen pravim stvarima ili previ\u0161e pa\u017enje posve\u0107ujem neva\u017enim stvarima koje kradu energiju. Da li \u010dinim sve \u0161to mogu, dovoljno poma\u017eem drugima?<\/p>\n

Sa ovim mislima krenuli smo ka crkvi. Kad dodirnete njen hrapav zid mo\u017eete osetiti ljubav Angeline Brankovi\u0107. Mati Angelina je nekoliko puta preme\u0161tala mo\u0161ti svoga supruga, Stefana slepog sve dok njen sin nije podigao ovaj manastir u kojem sada po\u010diva skoro cela porodica. Njenog supruga, despota, Turci su jo\u0161 u mladosti oslepeli, a ro\u0111eni brat ga je prognao. Iako su ve\u0107i deo \u017eivota \u017eiveli u nema\u0161tini i selidbama, Angelina nikada nije napustila svog slepog mu\u017ea. Hrabro je sa njime podnosila sve neda\u0107e i nosila te\u0161ko breme svoje sudbine.<\/p>\n

U crkvi se mo\u017ee osetiti te\u017eina njenih suza koje je prolila mole\u0107i se za spas du\u0161e svog supruga, dvojice sinova i \u0107erke Mare, koje je sve sahranila. Niko ne mo\u017ee ostati ravnodu\u0161an na ovu veliku ljubav, patnju i \u017ertvu.<\/p>\n

Drhtavim rukama, zlatnim i srebrnim nitima vezla je prekriva\u010de za njihove kivote. Svako ko ovde do\u0111e ostane fasciniran ja\u010dinom ove \u017eene koja je, i pored toliko neda\u0107a, ostala jaka i hrabra u svojoj veri.<\/p>\n

Pogledao sam suprugu. Okrenula se i nasme\u0161ila mi se. Volim kad, kao tada, podelimo trenutak, samo nas dvoje, i kada, ostali ljudi koji su oko nas, jednostavno nestanu.<\/p>\n

Kad smo iza\u0161li bilo smo pod tolikim utiskom da smo seli na klupicu u dvori\u0161tu i dugo gledali u \u0111eram koji se u njemu nalazi. Tek posle nekih pola sata u\u017eivanja u miru i spokoju ustali smo i krenuli put ku\u0107e.<\/p>\n

Obilazak manastira Fru\u0161ke gore<\/a> putovanje je koje svako treba da iskusi i do\u017eivljaj koji \u0107ete \u017eeleti da ponovite sa svojim voljenima.<\/p>\n

 <\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Supruga i ja ba\u0161 volimo da putujemo. Zbog poslovnih obaveza ba\u0161 i ne sti\u017eemo da odemo na neko du\u017ee putovanje, a promena okru\u017eenja, makar na kratko, bila nam je ba\u0161 potrebna. Izbor nam je pao na jednodnevni izlet po manastirima Fru\u0161ke gore. To je ba\u0161 ono \u0161to nam je bilo potrebno da se opustimo, saznamo […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":3,"featured_media":2803,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[461],"tags":[465,465,462,606,608],"class_list":["post-25659","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-posecene-lokacije","tag-fruskagora","tag-manastiri","tag-putovanja","tag-putovanje"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nSerbian Atos: a magic day in monasteries of Fruska Gora<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"We really needed to get out of the city, so we decided to go for a one-day visit to monasteries of \u00a0Fruska Gora. 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